Sunday 14 December 2014

Candle in the Wind(hoek)


I still remember the day I took my trip to Windhoek like it was yesterday. I had spent the days preceding my departure at one of Africa’s greatest gay gatherings, the Mother City Queer Project (MCQP) in Cape Town. The year was 2011 and the theme was Maid In China. This was my first MCQP and it lived up to all of my expectations. My journey started in the morning of 19 December with a brisk walk from my hotel at the V&A to the Cape Town train station. Yes, you read it right; I took a 23-hour bus ride from Cape Town to Windhoek.

I honestly do not know what had possessed me to take a journey by bus alone instead of flying to Windhoek. I had not been in a bus since 2007 but something in me made me think it was a good idea to be on a bus for 23 hours instead of flying for two hours. My decision may have been informed by the fact that the bus ride was less than $100 vs. at least $300 by plane. After a few minutes of admin and finding my bus we were on our way. I was excited. I came prepared with my snacks, music and a power pack for when my iPod would give up on me. I was that super eager guy in row 22!

The most beautiful thing about this journey was meeting all the different people that were making their way from Cape Town to their homes for the Christmas holiday season. I met a lovely lady (we shall call her Grace) who had just completed her Masters degree at the University of Western Cape in economics from Windhoek who gave me a bit of a background on the country’s politics and economic policies. I also met gentlemen who were making their way to Angola and the DRC. I quite enjoyed the conversations with all these people and one particular one was with Grace when she was telling me about her decision to quit her job and go study full time after her divorce. Grace was also very kind to give me a blanket at night. I don’t know what I was thinking – I just assumed that the bus company would provide us with blankets like they do on planes. Now I (and you) know.
The gentlemen from Angola and DRC at one of our stops before crossing the Namibian border.

We arrived in Windhoek at 8 am after an uneventful ride after we crossed the Namibian border. Note to self: the next time you decide to take a bus ride that crosses any borders just make sure it is not over the Christmas period. I was very lucky that the bus stopped right outside my hotel in the city center, Hilton (don’t side-eye me, yes I took a bus to go stay in a 5* hotel). I must mention that that was by far the best hotel I stayed in during my travels. Their attention to detail was awesome. Perhaps I was happy with the fact that they allowed me to check in early AND have breakfast. I am tempted to say that this was the best part of my Windhoek stay.
This is all I traveled with. This is me awaiting my room to be ready at the lobby of the Hilton Hotel Windhoek
Scrumptious breakfast at the Hilton Windhoek



The city is very clean! It reminds me of a small German town I have never been to or a small version of Bloemfontein, a South African city. I searched the city for Namibian cuisine and all I was met with was German cuisine that was drenched in oil enough to deep fry a pea. Honestly my disappointment at this city came from the fact that it had no identity of its own. It was the tenth province of South Africa – I could still use my South African Rands throughout the city and dine out at the same South African chain restaurants.

I spent my days lounging my hotel's rooftop bar and sending my friends pictures of the cocktails I was having and the spectacular views of the sunset.

The nights were more eventful. I went to the local bars and clubs to meet people. I went for the One Namibian Dollar shots special at Fashion Bar in the outskirts of the city. Again, it didn’t feel like I left South Africa. The only saving grace was Chez Ntemba and their zouk/Kizomba music. I thoroughly enjoyed the Angolan and Congolese patrons (men) and their warm welcome and flirting (which I didn’t mind at all).


I also quite enjoyed seeing the beautiful OvaHimba ladies in their full traditional gear and their famous natural long hair. The OvaHimba are a tribe from the North of Namibia and are the last nomadic people of Namibia.


No comments:

Post a Comment